Posted 20 hours ago

Tiffen 5285B 52mm 85B Filter

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So under lights, full ASA speed and no filter, correct colour balance for 3200*K Outdoors fit a Wratten 85B amber filter, or maybe a Wratten 85BN3 which incorporated neutral density as well as enabling daylight balance of 5500*K. No need to change from tungsten film to daylight film, and colours matched perfectly in either situation. The following was translated from a little known parchment relating to a discussion between Rembrandt and one of his many patrons:

The most commonly used 81 series filter is the 81B; it’s a good one to have if you want only one in this series. The 81 series is an essential filter for landscape photographers. In conclusion, filters, as with most things in life, have their plusses and minuses. Hopefully my Camera filters explained guide is of some help. Is the Nikon O56 filter an 85b? Is a Nikon O56 filter straight orange? What makes filter manufacturers agree on one standard code for filter colors? Can you see how much better “O56” communicates the color temperature correction factor than “85B”? There is no official Nikon A12 85a or 85b – but there is some confusion online. Filter designation is as important as designation of a Rosetta Stone. An illustration of a Wratten number chart on the left, followed by columns of manufacturers’ names, along with a description of the color. In units of 10 mireds, the Nikon number indicates the color temperature shift of the filter.

How do Filters work?

There are two types of fluorescent filters available to photographers. The FLD filter is designed for daylight film. The FLB filter is produced for tungsten film. While both absorb light, it has been my experience that an extra half-stop of exposure is required beyond what the camera suggests. Will the lab be able to correct them all to BE the same? Won't the difference in the spectral components of the light reaching the film make a difference on the negative? One that we can see even when the shot is corrected to the same gray scale? Anyone done such a test, anyone know the answer? Maybe the 85 is suggested for historic reasons - it is the correct filter for Kodachrome 40A and that is all that really matters! A CC10M filter has less density and would impact the image less with its magenta color. The CC filters require exposure compensation based on the density of the filter. Incidentally, magenta is a complementary color to green. Therefore, the CC40M is often used to correct for florescent lighting when using daylight film. Most filters absorb light. They have a “filter factor” that tells how much exposure you must add for that particular filter. If your camera meters through the lens, it will automatically make the adjustment for you.

When taking photos at low ISO, a red filter makes it easier to see what’s happening to your sensor. A red filter can make photographs appear lifelike, especially when used in portraits or other situations in which you want to emphasize the features of the subject. Does Lens Filter Affect Image Quality? Contrast filters are important for interpreting a scene. Imagine a medium red tulip that has medium green leaves. Shooting this scene without a contrast filter won’t differentiate between the two medium tones. They’ll both be the same tonality in the final image, making it pretty boring. The darken of the sky is caused by a yellow filter, which balances its exposure between the darker and lighter parts of the sky. Furthermore, by blotting out clouds, they create a more interesting sky. This type of filter produces warm, natural, pleasing flesh tones, similar to those produced by an orange filter, but at a slower pace.

Similar Products

The 81 series of filters reduces the excessive blue when you’re photographing in the shade and adds “warmth” to a scene when you’re shooting in normal light. Like many filters, they’re made in a variety of strengths. The 81A has the weakest effect. As you proceed through the alphabet, the effect becomes stronger. I don’t care for the rule of thirds, as I like to center my subjects. Sometimes, I go against the rules of normal framing and strive for unique angles. I like contextual portraits. I break the “rules” to conform to my style and that’s the way it should work for any photographer. A single filter can’t adapt to that many conditions. There are some films that perform better under fluorescent lighting than others. Fuji’s Reala, a print film, is one of the better ones. (For another way of handling fluorescent lighting, try a CC40M.) Color Compensating Filters:

As mentioned above, the primary purpose of these filters is to protect the front element of the lens from damage. The two main filters in this category are the Sky (1A) and the Haze (UV) filters. Some companies will designate these filters differently. I came to the conclusion that the visual look of a correction filter was not necessarily an indication of it's ability to do it's job ... Your eye automatically makes the correction; the camera does not. A filter can correct the color so the eye and the camera see the scene in the same way. On occasion, the light balance of colour film can be improperly matched to a light source. When this happens, the colours in the image won't match those of the original scene- this is where conversion filters are needed. There will be some differences in look when you shoot without the 85 and have the lab correct it in printing. Without proper filter correction, your blues get over-exposed (or denser on the negative) and the reds gets under-exposed (or less dense.) Visually, this will make your reds less saturated, meaning that fleshtones will lose some of their color saturation (although this can be more pleasing in some cases.)

Testing Filters: the results

If you look at the spectral sensitivity curves of the two products (Ektachrome and negative films), there is a noticeable difference in the yellow forming layers at the 400-380 wavelength range. Comparing an 85 and 85b filter, the most significant difference falls in the same range, thus the belief that the 85 filter was chosen over the 85b. All commented that either filter would produce acceptable results and only a very slight difference in look. John went as far as suggesting the only difference was in the taste of the people who originally prepared the data sheet information and all agreed that john was not far from the truth.

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