Posted 20 hours ago

adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

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The ultimate all-rounder “quiver of one” shoe. Yes, there might be better shoes on the market for edging, smearing, hooking, jamming, red-pointing, or climbing all day: but the Pink can do all these things – and more. We tested the Five Ten NIAD Lace over a month of spring climbing on the pink crystalline granite in Central Texas. The shape is fairly wide, yet has no problem with dead space, or uncomfortable pinching on the Achilles tendon. Because the slingshot rand is separated from the heel cup, it stretches further down the shoe before wrapping under the foot. This is a massive improvement over the original Anasazi, as well as the Anasazi Pro, both of which had significantly smaller rands that squeezed your heel to maintain a secure fit. That said, despite the fact that the Anasazi is now a relatively old shoe, you still see it everywhere. Whenever I see a photo of Ned Feehally he always seems to be wearing them; Shauna Coxsey often wears the extremely popular women's version in competition;, and on a recent trip to Leonidio I often saw a pair at the crag. The Anasazi Pro therefore has a lot to live up to! So what's changed and how would I get on with it compared to the classic shoe? What's new? As mentioned above, the NIAD VCS maintains the Anasazi's unlined, minimal stretchCowdura (suede microfibre) upper, so doesn't stretch much at all and offers some breathability (even in this year's Summer heatwaves) and abrasion resistance.

The Five Ten Anasazi Laceor ‘Pinks’, as they are simply known, have been a staple of the Five Ten range since the ‘90s. Over the decades they have built a reputation as the ultimate all-rounder and a loyal fan base due to the shoe’s reliable performance and adaptable characteristics. Five Ten says the VCS is designed for wider feet than the lace model, which I would agree with. My feet are fairly narrow so the shoes still fit but there is a noticeably long bit of Velcro which overhangs when they’re done up. This has been more of a slight annoyance than anything else though. I certainly found that my foot shape was more suited to the Pinks or Blancos than their Velcro counterpart. Something I need to get off my chest before I get into the nitty gritty here: I am a La Sportiva Fanboy. There, I said it; since the mid-nineties I have owned (almost) nothing but Sportiva shoes and they have always just felt right on my foot. The following review is stinking with bias, hearsay, conjecture and malice. *ahem* Further Confession of Bias: With amedium-stiff sole, flat last, low asymmetry, and a healthy dose of that legendary C4 rubber, this is an incredibly comfortable and precise shoe that is ideal for long days at the crag. Even at a glance, it is obvious that the Anasazi VCS is designed for vertical – or less than vertical – climbing. That’s not to say you can’t climb a monster overhang or roofs in them, but this certainly takes a lot more effort than Five Ten’s performance shoes.Trad climbers can’t go wrong with the Pink. It’s a performance-oriented climbing shoe that’s also an excellent all-arounder. Of all the climbing shoes on the market, this is one of our favorites (and it’s been that way for quite some time). If you don’t like lace-ups, consider the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. It’s as good as the Pink, but will break in a little more comfortably over time and excel more in multi-pitch scenarios. And the Velcro model is much older than the Pink, so if you shop around you may be able to find some cheaper closeout models. Pulling from Five-Ten's iconic heritage and legendary range of climbing shoes, the NIAD VCS is the new re-imagined version of the ever-popular and renowned Five-Ten Anasazi. Designed for all-round performance, the NIAD VCS sits comfortably on all disciplines of climbing, seldom-seen is a shoe that performs so well trad-climbing but is also relied upon by world-cup level competition climbers.

The Anasazi Lace is a slightly asymmetric, moderately downturned shoe. It is designed with a roomy toe box that allows the forefoot to lie flat rather than in a curled position, and has a medium-stiff midsole. The result? The Pink feels supportive and firm, offering power and stability on edges, although it is flexible enough to smear and slab when sized loosely or once well-broken-in. And just as a refresher: Softer shoes—like the La Sportiva Skwama or Five Ten Hiangle—do not provide this same stability needed for precise edging, but enable you to toe-in better on steep routes. Plus, you’re able to feel the holds more underfoot, which many climbers like. The Stealth C4 rubber brings a good balance between friction and durability that makes the shoe feel at home at the crag and in the gym. The Pinks have handled most styles of climbing I have thrown at them. From slabs to vertical and slightly steeper walls, they feel great. Be warned though, that the Pinks will reach their limit on very steep sport, bouldering, or modern competition routes. Thanks to its neutral, medium-stiff midsole, the NIAD VCS offers ultimate edging performance, whilst the Stealth® C4™ rubber keeps you solid on the smallest indoor chip of a foothold as-well-as the glassy pof'ed-up slopers of Fontainebleau. A new extended toe rubber provides improved toe-hooking performance and gives more versatility in both your indoor and outdoor climbing projects.Haven’t really tested the toe hook patch. Not sure it’s really required as this isn’t a bouldering specialist shoe.

The NAID VCS is good at a variety of foot placements, including edging on the inside and outside of the shoe. Out of the box, the VCS feels surprisingly stiff, almost identical to its stiffer sibling, the NIAD Lace. During this phase, they edge as you would expect a stiff shoe too, extremely well. This exceptional rubber paired with the Pink’s stiff midsole gives this shoe that reliable edging ability the Pinks are famous for.And although 4.2mm rubber – paired with that stiff midsole – does give you great durability, there is a slight trade-off with sensitivity. Overhangs also tend to require a bit more of a downward hook than these shoes provide, though that wasn’t a surprise given the mostly flat and fairly stiff sole. The added grip from the C4 absolutely helps a bit here, but definitely don’t go replacing your steep shoes with these until you’re finished with the Magnus Mitbö Finger Strength University Vol. 187: “The Pinchening” program.Summary: Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Steph Davis, Dean Potter. Those are just a handful of the legendary climbers who have been known to wear the Anasazi line, the predecessor of Five Ten’s new NIAD range.

We've refined the Five Ten Lace-Up that has delivered climbers to the top of more 5.14s than any other shoe. The lined Cowdura™ synthetic upper fits like a glove; providing the same fit, climb after climb, as the day the shoe was born. Stealth® C4™ rubber soles offer extremely high friction and great sensitivity. A common problem with synthetic climbing shoes is that they tend to start smell BAD. For any climbing shoes, I would suggest bagging yourself a pair of boot bananasto fight the funk. The Verdict These shoes saw about 10 hours of use a week over 6 months before the toe area wore through to the rand, at which point I sent them off for a resole with the same rubber. Easy! Comfort and Fit There is no doubt that these shoes are designed for slabs, long sport routes, and all-round beginner/intermediate level gym climbing. If you buy these expecting to crush those awesome cave problems at your local gym, you will be disappointed.Pete: Climbing shoes are one of the most difficult things to get right, they can feel amazing in the shop and then a couple of pitches up a route they can be agony! The Pinks so far have been brilliant, albeit with a little discomfort on the first few wears, they have bedded in well and now fit like slippers. These are going to be my “go to” shoe for almost any climbing over the next few years at least! Following their release in 1992, the Anasazis started to build their reputation as a serious-sending shoe after Jean-Baptiste Tribout put up Just Do It, the first 5.14c (8c+) in the USA. Just a few years later, a 15-year-old Chris Sharma topped out Necessary Evil, wearing the Anasazi VCS, setting a new standard for American sport climbing. Smearing on textured granite felt secure — much of that credit to the fabled adhesive qualities of the Stealth C4 rubber outsole. The amount of stiffness muffled tactile sensation on less prominent textures, making for some tense moments, but on the crystalline granite, the C4 rarely failed. The suction effect generated from the heel gives you a really secure fit. During my time testing these shoes I’ve never had any issues with the heel slipping or moving when doing prolonged sections of slabby smearing or occasional heel hooking. Rubber While the Pinksor Blancosmight be Five Ten’s front runners, the VCS certainly holds its own. So much so that they have been favored by many top-class climbers including Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker, and Steve McClure.

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